Each hike, in fact each trail, has its own personality and vibe. Some, like Ramsey Cascades, have a big wow at the end of the trail. Others, like Big Creek, keep your attention with picture perfect scenes around every turn. Still others, like Porter's Creek and Gregory's Bald, have their fleeting, shining moment as flowers quickly bloom, then fade into a memory.
Today's hike had none of the high impact drama of the "top" trails mentioned. Instead it showed a much more subtle beauty and provided solitude and silence for the hiker.
By the numbers, today's hike was 21.2 total miles with 17.2 of them being new miles. My lowest elevation was 2700 ft at the beginning of the hike. The highest elevation was 5500 ft. I started at 8 am and finished at 5 pm.
I parked at the Pretty Hollow Gap trailhead. I had previously hiked the first .8 miles of this trail so I knew it was basically a road bed. The trail hugged the creek until I reached the Palmer Creek trailhead at 1.6 miles. Palmer Creek Trail began with a double foot bridge crossing of the creek. Construction seems to be everywhere I go.
The first half of Palmer Creek Trail shared a narrow valley with the creek itself. Once the creek and the trail parted ways the remainder of the trail was through rhododendron tunnels. With the narrow valley and the rhododendron, there were certainly no sweeping vistas. Instead I could focus on the smaller sights close at hand. 3.3 miles later, I had completed Palmer Creek Trail.
Palmer Creek Trail ended at Balsam Mountain Road. I walked .6 miles along the road to the next trailhead. The road was closed so traffic certainly wasn't an issue.
Next up was Balsam Mountain Trail. Along Balsam Mountain trail I started seeing lots of Dark-eyed Juncos. They would wait until I was right beside them and then quickly fly away. After a while I figured out that they were nesting on the ground, but I couldn't seem to see them early enough in their flight to see where their nest was. While on the watch for Juncos, a group of grouse sprang up giving me the usual grouse induced heart attack. There were 6-8 of them and I can only assume they were juveniles with their mother.
Soon after I saw the grouse, I found myself at the Laurel Gap Shelter.
As I was walking the last few grassy feet to the shelter I saw movement at my feet. A newly fledged and not quite flight worthy Junco was hopping along in front of me. I could hear the mother reading me the riot act from a nearby bush. I snapped a quick photo of the chick and then left them to their own devices.
Unfortunately, while I was watching the little Junco I missed the equally small trail sign and ended up taking an unscheduled detour to the spring at the shelter. In finally realized my error, did an about face and finally located the tiny sign in the tall grass. Soon I was at the Mount Sterling Ridge Trail and 4.3 miles of Balsam Mountain Trail lay behind me.
Every account I read of someone hiking all the trails in the Smokies includes a warning to avoid leaving untrodden spurs that might not connect as easily with future hikes. With that in mind, I did a quick out and back covering the .9 miles of Balsam Mountain Trail between Mount Sterling Ridge and Gunter Fork since I don't yet have a clear idea of how I am going to incorporate Gunter Fork Trail.
Back at the Mount Sterling Ridge Trail, I then hiked what is probably the flattest 4 miles of high elevation trail in the entire park. Since there were still no vistas, I slowed my pace and took time to notice the little things. I saw some outstanding fungi along this section of trail.
I continued to see lots of Junco. I finally managed to see one just as it took flight. I found its tiny nest sheltered under a rock in some weeds.
Inside I could just see three tiny blue speckled eggs.
Along this section of trail there were huge patches of grass. It was easy to imagine the early settlers bringing their cattle her in the summer to graze.
I saw my one and only mountain view for the day along this section of trail.
While the trail sign said 4 miles, I think I walked an extra mile avoiding hog wallows.
The end of the Mount Sterling Ridge trail for me today was its intersection with Pretty Hollow Gap. Someone had spent a lot of time trimming the brush at the intersection. Unfortunately, the five million gnats calling it home kept me from lingering very long.
Soon after I started down Pretty Hollow Gap, I saw someone's water shoe. I left it in place in case they came back for it though I didn't see a single person all day.
I saw a single purple fringed orchid blooming near the top of the trail.
Someone, or more likely several someones, had been doing lots of work on the trail which made for a great grade but lots of mud.
I saw lots of fungi along this trail as well.
This tiny waterfall tucked back in an alcove almost made me fall into the creek as I tried to get a picture of it.
I haven't a clue what these red berries are, but they were so brightly colored that they didn't look real.
All too soon, or not soon enough, depending on which body parts you survey, I was back at my car. Another hike finished. Another day of memories made.
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