There will be rain

If the theme for Monday's hike was "enjoy the little things, then the theme for today's hike was perseverance.  

By the numbers, I hiked a total of 19.8 miles with 6.4 of them being new miles.  I could have made this a much shorter hike by simply doing an out and back on the trails I needed, but there would have been no fun in that.

Monday's hike ended with me hiking down Pretty Hollow Gap.  Tuesday's hike began with me hiking up Pretty Hollow Gap.  Not much had changed since the day before.  The water shoe was still in place and there was still quite a bit of mud at the top.  I did see two elk near the intersection with Palmer Creek Trail.

At the end of Pretty Hollow Gap I turned right onto Mount Sterling Ridge Trail.  I saw grouse, a deer and a fleeting glimpse of some wild hogs along this section of trail.  I had hiked this section before so I knew it alternated between rocky and uphill and flat and muddy.  

At the end of Mount Sterling Ridge trail I turned down the Mount Sterling Trail.  I had already decided to skip the sidetrip to the fire tower because I was hiking alone.  The fact that it was super cloudy made it an easy decision to stick to.  Mount Sterling was always steep, mostly rocky and often wet.  I saw two fellow hikers on this trail, the only people I saw on the trail all day.  Near the intersection of Long Bunk Trail it started to rain.  Not a washout, but enough that I had to dig my poncho out of my backpack.  

At the end of Mount Sterling I turned around and hiked half a mile back to Long Bunk Trail.  It stopped raining soon after I started down Long Bunk so I was able to put my poncho away for a bit.  The upper and lower reaches of Long Bunk were pleasant.  The middle half of the trail was extremely wet and muddy.  And just to draw attention to this fact, it started raining cats and dogs on me while I navigated the narrow, wet, muddy trail.  After the fourth or fifth time I stepped in mud over my boots, I was wishing I was on my nice comfy couch.  But all things eventually come to an end.  Soon after the rain stopped, I came to the Hannah Cemetery.  As morbid as it sounds, I always enjoy visiting the old cemeteries in the park.  

This gravestone was quite interesting.  There was an engraving on the back that I could not make out.

Two graves side by side had matching angel statues.

Most of this stone appeared to be professionally done, but the cross and tree seemed much more rudimentary.  

At the end of Long Bunk trail I turned left to do an out and back of the Little Cataloochee trail between Long Bunk and the road.  It started raining again on this section and I think if someone had came along while I was at the trailhead, I would have attempted to hitch a ride back to my car.  But alas, there was no one there so I turned around and headed back along Little Cataloochee.  I passed the Hannah Cabin during a particularly heavy rain shower, so I didn't stop to take any pictures of it.

The rain finally relented by the time I reached Little Cataloochee Church.  I had already planned on stopping for a bit since I had ate my lunch on the go during the rain.  At this point I had been hiking for  seven hours, two of them during the rain, with no breaks.   The church offered a beautiful spot to take a dry break.

I didn't take anytime to explore the Little Cataloochee Cemetery today.

The inside of the church looks as if it is ready for Sunday service.

On the wall to the side of the pulpit someone had put up a funeral card.  The death date was from May of this year.

After my break at the church, I continued up the trail to the Cook Cabin.  Across from the cabin are the remains of the stone foundation of an apple house.

Leaving the cabin, I made my way up and over Davidson Gap.  By the end of the trail I had forgotten all the rain and mud and was ready to plan my next hike.  

Big hike, small views

Each hike, in fact each trail, has its own personality and vibe.  Some, like Ramsey Cascades, have a big wow at the end of the trail.  Others, like Big Creek, keep your attention with picture perfect scenes around every turn.  Still others, like Porter's Creek and Gregory's Bald, have their fleeting, shining moment as flowers quickly bloom, then fade into a memory.

Today's hike had none of the high impact drama of the "top" trails mentioned.  Instead it showed a much more subtle beauty and provided solitude and silence for the hiker.

By the numbers, today's hike was 21.2 total miles with 17.2 of them being new miles.  My lowest elevation was 2700 ft at the beginning of the hike.  The highest elevation was 5500 ft.  I started at 8 am and finished at 5 pm.

I parked at the Pretty Hollow Gap trailhead.  I had previously hiked the first .8 miles of this trail so I knew it was basically a road bed.  The trail hugged the creek until I reached the Palmer Creek trailhead at 1.6 miles. Palmer Creek Trail began with a double foot bridge crossing of the creek.  Construction seems to be everywhere I go.

The first half of Palmer Creek Trail shared a narrow valley with the creek itself.  Once the creek and the trail parted ways the remainder of the trail was through rhododendron tunnels.  With the narrow valley and the rhododendron, there were certainly no sweeping vistas.  Instead I could focus on the smaller sights close at hand.  3.3 miles later, I had completed Palmer Creek Trail.

Palmer Creek Trail ended at Balsam Mountain Road.  I walked .6 miles along the road to the next trailhead. The road was closed so traffic certainly wasn't an issue.

Next up was Balsam Mountain Trail.  Along Balsam Mountain trail I started seeing lots of Dark-eyed Juncos.  They would wait until I was right beside them and then quickly fly away.  After a while I figured out that they were nesting on the ground, but I couldn't seem to see them early enough in their flight to see where their nest was.  While on the watch for Juncos, a group of grouse sprang up giving me the usual grouse induced heart attack.  There were 6-8 of them and I can only assume they were juveniles with their mother.

Soon after I saw the grouse, I found myself at the Laurel Gap Shelter.

As I was walking the last few grassy feet to the shelter I saw movement at my feet.  A newly fledged and not quite flight worthy Junco was hopping along in front of me.  I could hear the mother reading me the riot act from a nearby bush.  I snapped a quick photo of the chick and then left them to their own devices.

Unfortunately, while I was watching the little Junco I missed the equally small trail sign and ended up taking an unscheduled detour to the spring at the shelter.  In finally realized my error, did an about face and finally located the tiny sign in the tall grass.  Soon I was at the Mount Sterling Ridge Trail and 4.3 miles of Balsam Mountain Trail lay behind me.

Every account I read of someone hiking all the trails in the Smokies includes a warning to avoid leaving untrodden spurs that might not connect as easily with future hikes.  With that in mind, I did a quick out and back covering the .9 miles of Balsam Mountain Trail between Mount Sterling Ridge and Gunter Fork since I don't yet have a clear idea of how I am going to incorporate Gunter Fork Trail.

Back at the Mount Sterling Ridge Trail, I then hiked what is probably the flattest 4 miles of high elevation trail in the entire park.  Since there were still no vistas, I slowed my pace and took time to notice the little things.  I saw some outstanding fungi along this section of trail.

I continued to see lots of Junco.  I finally managed to see one just as it took flight.  I found its tiny nest sheltered under a rock in some weeds.

Inside I could just see three tiny blue speckled eggs.

 Along this section of trail there were huge patches of grass.  It was easy to imagine the early settlers bringing their cattle her in the summer to graze.

I saw my one and only mountain view for the day along this section of trail.  

While the trail sign said 4 miles, I think I walked an extra mile avoiding hog wallows.

The end of the Mount Sterling Ridge trail for me today was its intersection with Pretty Hollow Gap.  Someone had spent a lot of time trimming the brush at the intersection.  Unfortunately, the five million gnats calling it home kept me from lingering very long.

Soon after I started down Pretty Hollow Gap, I saw someone's water shoe.  I left it in place in case they came back for it though I didn't see a single person all day.

I saw a single purple fringed orchid blooming near the top of the trail.

Someone, or more likely several someones, had been doing lots of work on the trail which made for a great grade but lots of mud.

I saw lots of fungi along this trail as well.

This tiny waterfall tucked back in an alcove almost made me fall into the creek as I tried to get a picture of it.

I haven't a clue what these red berries are, but they were so brightly colored that they didn't look real.

All too soon, or not soon enough, depending on which body parts you survey, I was back at my car.  Another hike finished.  Another day of memories made.

When Mother Nature throws a tantrum

Last night after I lay down to sleep, I decided that I wanted to go hiking today.  So at 10:45 last night I got out of bed to throw my kit together and set my alarm for 5 am.  As is usual for me when I have plans, I woke up before the alarm went off and was out the door at 5:15.  Unfortunately, it takes an hour and forty five minutes to get to Cades Cove from my house.  In my excitement and rush this morning, I didn't grab a camera so the shots I do have come from my iphone.  Not the greatest quality, but better than nothing.

I parked my car at the Missionary Baptist Church on the Cades Cove Loop road and walked about a mile down the road to the Cooper Road trailhead.  I wanted to get that portion of road walking over with in the morning before the crowd became too heavy to walk along the road.  Along the way I stopped to snap a shot of the fields and mountains across the Cove.

Soon after I started walking on the Cooper Road Trail I spotted a black bear sow and two cubs.  She and I shared a few tense moments as I attempted to convince her that all I wanted to do was get past her and her cubs.  No pics of the bears, I didn't want to risk her going crazy on the paparazzi.  

Cooper Road Trail showed a bit of damage from the tornadoes that tore through the western edge of the park in 2011.

Luckily this giant survived the damage.

At the intersection of Cooper Road Trail and Beard Cane Trail, I turned right onto Beard Cane.  I knew that the tornadoes had done a lot of damage to the area, but I wasn't prepared for the amount of devastation.  The trail only recently reopened after a path was finally cleared through the mess.  

The hill pictured should be covered in trees the size of the one leaning in the center.   

The picture below shows what the area looked like below the damage.  The three previous pictures should all look like this one.

At the end of Beard Cane I turned right onto Ace Gap Trail and followed it to Rich Mountain Road.  I turned right onto Rich Mountain Road for a 100 yards or so and then turned left onto Rich Mountain Trail.  Soon after starting on the trail I heard something moving in the underbrush.  It sounded too large to be a squirrel, but to small to be a bear or deer.  When I finally found the culprit, I was surprised to see a raccoon looking back at me.  The word mountain in the name should have been a clue that I was about to do some serious climbing, but it still caught me off guard.  

Luckily, there were several things blooming on the trail to stop and admire/catch my breath.  Rosebay Rhododendron was blooming in several places.  

Flame azaleas were also showing some life.  

But the highlight was two, late Pink Lady Slippers.  I was surprised to see them this late in the season.

At the end of Rich Mountain Trail, I turned right onto Indian Grave Gap.  I had previously done part of this trail, but had some to finish up.  

Sweetshrub was blooming along Indian Grave Gap.

A few breaks along the trail gave views into Cades Cove from above.

Blisters and all, I was still smiling at the end of the trail.  Unfortunately, I still had over two miles of road walking to do along Rich Mountain Road.

Even road walking has its moments though!

If you look very closely, you can see the Methodist Church in the center.  

23.2 total miles today, plus or minus a few tenths depending on how well I measured the road walking parts. In addition to the three bears and raccoon, I also saw three turkeys, two pileated woodpeckers, several deer and more squirrels and chipmunks than I have ever seen while hiking.

As always, I can't wait to get back in the woods!

Vegetable Garden

After several rain delays, we were finally able to plant our vegetable garden. Corn, rattlesnake beans, blue lake beans, squash, zucchini, cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes all went in the ground. Now, we wait! 

Scenes from the yard

When our yard swing started to break down from the effects of weathering, we gave it a new life as a shelf for plants along the back wall of the basement.

Pallet table

Browsing on Pinterest, a snow day and an accumulated stack of pallets to recycle led to a new table for the front porch. I used 3x3 beams from a mobile home company to make the legs. The cross pieces are made from the pallet vertical pieces. I used the cutouts for the pallet forks as design elements. The flat surfaces of the table are made from the flat pieces of the pallets. I used about 2 1/2 pallets to make the table.

Back on the trail.

Marathon training put a major dent into the amount of time I had to devote to hiking.  Now that the marathon is behind me, I can refocus onto to other things that I truly enjoy.  After studying my calendar, I finally decided that I could take last Friday off without the world coming to an end.  Due to unforeseen circumstances, I changed my planned hike at the last minute.  Some hikes I have planned have a destination of some sort at the end.  It might be a waterfall, a tower, or an amazing view.  Others are just meandering strolls or death marches through the woods.  I like to do the destination hikes when someone goes with me.  I prefer to be on my own for the death marches so no one is contemplating pushing me over an edge or throwing rocks at me.

For this hike I chose a 21 mile semi-lollipop hike leaving from Cosby Campground.  Over the course of the 21 miles, I gained and lost over 5000 vertical feet.  I climbed up Low Gap II, then descended Low Gap I.  I turned right onto Big Creek trail until it became Camel Gap trail.  I followed Camel Gap back up to the Appalachian Trail.  At the AT I turned left and hiked up to the Snake Den Ridge trail intersection then turned around and hiked back down the AT all the way to Low Gap.  I finished by hiking back down Low Gap II to my car.

The lower reaches of the Low Gap II trail are a nice, pretty trail.  It skirts the edge of the campground following a stream.  There were wildflowers galore.  There are several pretty cascades along this section of trail.  

Soon after the trail left the stream, I saw these Painted Trillium growing alongside the trail.  I spent many hours with a hiking pal looking for these in seasons past.  For that reason I always get excited when I find them.  These were growing so close to the trail that I didn't even have to leave the trail to take a picture.  I saw more later on the Camel Gap trail as well.

After I saw the Painted Trillium, Low Gap II quickly became the trail that I remembered from a previous trip:  steep and rocky.  But any day on the trail is a good day so onward and upward I continued.  At the end of my first trail I came to the intersection on Low Gap II, Low Gap I and the Appalachian Trail.  I paused for just a moment and then quickly headed down Low Gap I.  I found it a much more pleasant trail.  There were large numbers of wildflowers along the trail.  Near the bottom of the mountain I saw several rockwalls and a chimney.  I had miles to go so I wasn't able to give them more than a cursory glance today.

At the end of Low Gap I,  I came to Big Creek Trail.  I had previously hiked up Big Creek trail to this intersection, but had been no further.  It is always interesting to me to come to an intersection that I have been to before.  I always take a moment to recall my previous time or times there and to reflect on what has changed since then.  My previous visit to this intersection had been on a hike with a friend to visit the Mount Sterling Fire Tower.

Turning to the right quickly brought me to the end of Big Creek Trail and the start of Camel Gap trail.  There is no clear reason to me why the trail changes names.  The trail does become a bit narrower after it becomes Camel Gap, but it is still a very pleasant trail.  

Camel Gap continues along the stream with some nice views of small waterfalls along the way.  About a mile from the end of the trail, Camel Gap swings to the right and begins to climb the mountain much more steeply.  Along this section I did see several more Painted Trillium.  

The end of Camel Gap brought me back to the Appalachian Trail.  I did some quick calculations and decided that I had plenty of time and water to make an out and back trip to the Snake Den Ridge trail head to tie up a loose end on my map.  I can't say this was the most pleasant section of trail I have hiked.  It had some great views, but I had to be focused on the many rocks on the trail.  Some would slide with me, others would just stub my toe.

I did manage to look up and see this great view of Balsam Mountain across the valley.  Low Gap I and Camel Gap had taken me into the valley between the mountains today.  Another day, I will be hiking along the ridgetop across the valley.

The junction with Snake Den Ridge was my turn around for the day.  The last time I was at this intersection was under much different circumstances.  I was doing a loop from Cosby Campground and decided to do the short segment to finish Snake Den Ridge.  In my effort to finish the trail, I was blind to the storm clouds gathering overhead.  By the time I made it to this intersection I was in the middle of one of the worst thunderstorms I have ever been in.  Thunder was booming overhead and on more than one occasion I heard lightening strike trees on the mountain top above me.  I ended up sprinting two miles down the mountain in an attempt to get below the storm.  By the time I had gotten out of the storm, I was running through six inches of water on the trail.  Not a scenario that I hope to repeat again.

This hike brought much more pleasant conditions.  I paused briefly at the intersection before turning to head back along the AT.  Following the AT brought me back to the Camel Gap intersection.  The section of AT between the Camel Gap and Low Gap intersections was much more pleasant.  There were huge patches of Spring Beauty and Trout Lily blooming.  I was walking through a a high altitude flower garden.  I quickly came back to the Low Gap intersection where I turned down Low Gap II towards Cosby Campground.

Near the end of Low Gap II, there are multiple connector trails to the campground.  I completed a couple of these to be able to mark them off my map.  The footbridge and waterfall above were along one of these connectors.

It felt great to be back in the woods.  I can't wait to start marking more miles off my map.